
They're everywhere in Massachusetts.
Well, not everywhere exactly. In the last decade, bog area in the state has dropped almost 8% to 12,000 total acres as the challenges that have faced growers for 200 years are compounded by climate change. The market's future in Mass. is uncretain, but not as bleak as its drop in bog area would suggest.
The first thing to know about growing cranberries is that it's complicated. Vine grow across blocks of land, called pieces, surrounded by moats of water, called ditches. When the growing season starts in March growers work on them daily, applying water, removing weeds, ensuring ditches are free-flowing, and tending to pests, among other things. This all has to be timed carefully, as walking on pieces too much will damage the crop. Most pieces have a re-rentry time, the amount of time a grower has to wait after tending to it, of about 4 hours.
Around September and November, when it's time to harvest, the ditches are pumped with water and the entire bog is submerged. Ripe berries have air pockets in them, resulting in a bouyant force strong enough to rip them from the vines. The berries are then collected from the water's surface and processed.
The amount of berries one actually gets at the end of the season is hard to predict. It depends heavily on rainfall and groundwater levels, each of which has to be within a specific range, but temperatures, pest levels, and pollinators also play a roll, according to Emma Wick, the Cape Cod Cranberry Growers Assosciation's environmental regulations manager.
While production has been fluctuating, in the aggregate it is not trending downward, despite the loss of bogs in recent years. This is partly because most of the pieces being taken out of production are the oldest, some of them producing berries for over a century.
"As these pieces get older, they naturally become less productive," Wick said.
Growers are then able to devote the time an energy required to maintain older pieces into getting more out of younger ones, according to Wick. This has paid off for Massachusetts growers. The state is currently in the third year of a record-breaking drought, and a catastrophic drop in yields has been staved off.
There is some anxiety among growers about climate change, which is already starting to negatively affect cranberry production. For example, Wick said that October and November have been unseasonably warm in the last few years, causing berries to overripen and become soft and command a lower price.
"There's this book called Clarence the Cranberry," Wick said. "And Clarence the cranberry couldn't bounce. People say the best cranberries are the ones that bounce, because they're firmer."
In an extension of the strategy they used to stay afloat through decaying bogs and droughts, cranberry growers are embracing new technology to squeeze more berries out of their pieces as those droughts become more common and growing seasons get shorter, according to Wick. Many are getting liscences for commercial drone use and adopting more efficient harvesting pumps and irrigation technology. This
"New technology making the industry feel a little bit more creative and innovative lately," Wick said.